Tag Archives: mediterranean

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J603 Arcadia to the Eastern Med 10.05.26 Part 4

CORRECTION: It’s four ports in four days, not five in five.

If the scales in the gym are to be believed (which is a fairly big IF), I lost over two kilos between Motril and Palermo, just from all the walking we do on board. I forgot to weigh myself today. I’ll try and remember tomorrow.

So, today is Piraeus. The energetic are off on coaches to Athens, to go up. They’ll go Up the Acropolis. They’ll go Up the Parthenon. They’ll plough through Athens traffic, in their (hopefully air conditioned) coaches. They will tootle around in ever decreasing circles while the various coach drivers of the approximately 7,000 cruise passengers and crew*∑ currently moored in Piraeus try not to all arrive at the same sights at the same time. That is, if they made it out of Piraeus at all, as there is a bicycle road race today and much of the port’s roads and transportation are out of commission for the day. Even the Hop-on/ Hop-off is cancelled. It is 24 degrees and very overcast. Not a breath of wind. Very pleasant to sit in, but probably a bit warm for racing. However, Piraeus is now a MASSIVE port, compared to when we came here all those years ago. There is a LOT of concrete here now. Mind you, it’s so huge, it may simply be that we are not in the same location as last time, and it’s all so expansive now, we cannot even see our previous mooring. In fact, the port is so busy with ferries and cruise ships that the sea outside our breakwater is actually calmer than inside.

Apparently, those on the Bridge can see the Acropolis, with binoculars!

Either way, I have had fun using what little Russian I remember to read the names on passing boats and ferries – Saints Cyril and Methodius (Bulgarian brothers, both monks), who invented the Cyrillic writing system in the 9th century to write down Slavic languages, used Greek letters to do it!

Being Greece, both the roads around the ports and a good majority of the passing boats and ferries have names like Poseidon, Antigone, Gaeia, Apollo and so on. But the tug that is going to guide us off our berth is the Christos 42, so either the captain is a Douglas Adams fan, or he’s got through a LOT of previous vessels and is a rotten driver!

OH MY GOOD LORD. WHY DIDN’T SOMEONE TELL ME ABOUT ACUPUNCTURE BEFORE?! Just TWO sessions and my right shoulder has 90-95 per cent recovered. Whereas, three days ago, I could not lift my right arm high enough to scratch my nose, now I can raise my arm all the way up and wave it over my head. I have enough pain-free movement to tie up my hair, reach across for things and even carry things. I’m still nervous about pulling or pushing doors, pressing and holding for the water dispenser, and so on, but the difference is staggering. And not a single needle went into the affected arm, just both knees and ankles and my left hand. I am a convert. At over 100 quid a throw, it isn’t cheap, but it is absolutely worth every penny. And Joel, the acupuncturist, is a Pet Shop Boys fan, despite being an American (it’s okay, he’s from California). Which is nice. Turns out he’s a month older than me.

Things I have learned today #1: The Norwegian Pearl does an annual KISS cruise, for fans of said rock band. Joel has treated a lot of rock stars on various ships over the years, so we never lack for conversation. We both agreed that Alice Cooper is the nicest person of those discussed so far. There’s plenty of chatting in an acupuncture session, as they try to distract you from the needles being put in. They don’t hurt, so I have to watch where they go in, so I don’t damage myself when his back is turned!

The P&O Cruises ‘worldy’ brochure has just come out. January 2027 looks good… 75 nights with ten ports we’ve never been to before. 2028’s only has four new ports.

Heraklion will be 26 Celsius tomorrow, apparently. I’m hoping to get ashore. I’ve never been to Crete, and to be this close to Knossos and not go would feel very wrong. But Dad hasn’t felt very good today, so nothing is set in stone.

Transmission ends.

*MV Aegean Odyssey 396 pax, 180 crew; MV Callisto 34 pax, 18 crew, Us 2358 pax, 866 crew, MV Pegasus 44 pax, 18 crew, MS Galileo 50 pax, 18 crew, and the Norwegian Pearl 2,344 pax, 1072 crew (7,398).

∑ Obviously, not all crew are allowed off at the same time, but you get the idea!

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J603 – Arcadia to the Eastern Med – 1 May 2026.

Okay, here we go!

WARNING: I have been told I seem to complain a lot. I do criticise certain aspects of the management and organisation; when you’ve travelled with the same company for 27 years, it’s hard not to notice changes (for the better or worse!). But I’m not complaining. I’m just observing the changes. Most of the time, I couldn’t give a tinker’s cuss either way, but it is interesting to see how things develop/regress. Please do not read this in a whiny voice. I am VERY well aware of how fortunate we are to be able to cruise, and to do so fairly frequently. If I believed in a deity, I would thank Him/Her/It/Them every night. This is a very luxurious kind of holiday – which, unfortunately, makes mistakes all the more glaringly obvious. Caveat ends.

Anyway, welcome to the (refitted since we last saw her) Arcadia. Lots of blue carpets. Purpose made to fit the spaces, with borders and stuff to really show off. The same fern-like carpet in Reception as we had on Aurora – grey ferns on a cream background. A friend tried to buy some at home after it appeared on Aurora, but it is apparently proprietary/ copyright or some such nonsense and not available to the ordinary proletariat to purchase. Why this is so, is anyone’s guess. Everything else is blue: the carpets in the public rooms, the corridors*, the funnel, everything. Blue, blue, blue (Ba ba dee ba ba dah). The sea, too, is currently a very impressive bright cobalt, as the sun sets quite fast on our starboard side.

So, where to start? They brought forward the coach pickup time at South Mimms Services from 11.30 to 9.30 am. Colour us unimpressed. But we managed to make it upright, the minicab arrived on time (driver’s name was Khaled), and they’ve put picnic tables in the coach park so we didn’t have to stand around whilst queuing. All so far so good. We made it to Southampton in 2.5 hours, which, for a bank holiday Friday, was astounding. Maybe the variable speed limits on the M25 really do work?!

This time, mercifully, there was no issue with getting two wheelchairs and we were on board in time for lunch. Although who wants FIVE courses, with cheese and petit fours (albeit with free wine), at lunchtime on any day is beyond my ken.

The cabin keys worked, the wifi worked, it was all dubiously smooth. Until…

Dad’s case didn’t arrive. We went to Reception and were assured that it was “almost certainly” on board. Very reassuring, thanks. We traded phone calls, we went back and forth to Reception to nag in person at least half a dozen times, they dispatched every deck supervisor to search the ship. At 9.15pm – EIGHT HOURS after we boarded, someone thought to ask Security. And there it was. ALLEGEDLY, they had spotted something suspicious on the x-ray, but could not open the combination lock. They didn’t TELL us. They didn’t even tell any of the Reception team. When we finally did locate it (in a room about six feet from the Reception Desk), the only Security person on duty had NO IDEA what the problem might have been. We unlocked it and she took a cursory look and asked her supervisor about some large scissors with 2.5 inch blades (the maximum is 4). And that was that. Only we still had to go and unpack it, after an already exhausting day – neither of us could be mistaken for spring chickens, let’s face it.

Just to add the cherry on top, we discovered last year that said combination lock has developed a worrying habit of jumping wheels, so the number you opened it with may not work the next time! It’s clearly aging at the same rate as we are! Still, makes for fun and games when trying to open it. It’s amazing what can be achieved with a bit of brute force and ignorance, and a teaspoon.

Arcadia is suffering from the standard ailments – tired décor, dents, dirty windows, etc. That’s all par for the course and not really a problem. But some bits are inconvenient. All the automatic doors (currently) work perfectly, but someone has put new closers on everything else, and you really have to put your back into it to open anything. Do NOT go to the loo in a hurry (or a one-piece bathing suit), because this includes the individual cubicle doors. If you do, don’t use the loos nearest the restaurant, because there’s no loo paper. Seriously, P&O, at lunchtime on Embarkation Day?! FFS.

The corner cutting continues apace. The new toilet paper is a bit hard for my liking (but I suppose I should just be grateful I found some!). The drinks prices continue to rise (anyone would think they were made of Brent Crude), but the food is plentiful, and largely edible (although the herrings pickled in sherry are not very popular!). The new mattresses are lovely – they were all replaced in January, apparently. But, conversely, whereas the staff used to use Red Henrys to hoover between sittings, they now use grey and blue imitations, which are lovely and quiet, but branded with P&O livery! Really? Is it necessary to waste money branding the vacuum cleaners?! Madness.

The lack of communication continues to blight matters – left hand and right hand still completely ignore each other. For example, a couple of years ago, all the cabin doors were metal, and had been since time immemorial. Some bright spark decided that, in the last refit, all the cabin doors should be covered with wood veneer. It looks very smart indeed. But it makes the MAGNETIC Do Not Disturb signs rather tricky to use. Seriously, you could not make this stuff up, you really couldn’t. Thank goodness they didn’t alter the door frames as well! As the magnetic signs only came in a few years ago, when we switched from push-pull card slots to contactless locks, which meant the demise of the little card DND signs that we used to just post in the gap and were impossible to ignore if you went to use a key, the silliness really starts to come into focus.

As with much with P&O, it’s one step forward, several back – less progress, more cha-cha-cha.

My massage was booked for today at 3.30pm. I booked it online before we sailed. When I got there, they said I was booked in for 5.30pm. Luckily, due to being a “Fool me once” kind of cynic, I had a screencap of my purchase. So I got a lovely massage from Beki, and we (accidentally, ahem) overran by half an hour by way of compensation – so I got a full body massage plus a facial massage plus an Indian head massage as well! By the time I left, I was so relaxed, I could barely stand!

I do wonder if things feel a little out of kilter because our beds are facing a different way to usual. Whereas, as far as I can recall, the cabin has always been laid out with the headboards either side of the window, facing across the beam, this time, our heads are aft and our feet are pointing forward. I have no idea if this really has any effect, but it’s interesting to note.

But, on the plus side, my massages are on 3 for 2 (oh well, if you INSIST), and the Bay of Biscay was so calm, I had to look out the window to check we were still moving. Bearing in mind that some people fly to Spain to meet the ship rather than cross it on board (because it’s very shallow and therefore tends to be quite rough), it was very pleasant.

We haven’t seen much in the way of wildlife or birds, as yet, although today we have passed two low-and-slows – both likely tankers, as not a container in sight on either. We’re doing about 15 knots, so we easily outpace them, particularly as these two were quite laden down and low in the water.

We didn’t get a dinner table on Day 1, but we got one last night. Carol and Roy are lovely (despite being Scottish). So are Sue and Malcolm, but a little quieter. The latter pair were on the same coach as us, and boarded at South Mimms. There are hardly ever Londoners on board, so Enfielders make a refreshing change.

We have bumped into several friends from earlier cruises. Thank heavens I started noting names in my blogs! It’s ever so useful to be able to look up people’s names. I’m good at faces, but not names. Dad isn’t very good at either, it transpires! But the blog archive has been invaluable in that respect, and we’re only on Day 3.

I am currently trying to persuade Dad to go and see Hidden Figures at the cinema tomorrow. Today was Raising Arizona, which I didn’t think he’d appreciate as much.

Tomorrow is Julia’s birthday, so happy birthday, Mrs Mushin! And May the 4th be with the rest of you.

*I will upload a photo, but apologies in advance to those of a more OCD persuasion.

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Where do we go from here?

Literally, where do we go?

If you take a look at any cruise company’s website these days, you will see a LOT of cruises to Norway and the Baltic.

Why?

Because there is nowhere else that is safe to go.

Let’s start with the Mediterranean: Italy, fine. Turkey, fine. Syria,? Erm, no. Israel? No, because for some reason the cruise companies have had an almighty attack of cowardice, despite the fact that the Foreign Office have no problem with us going there. Egypt? Nope, not at the moment. Libya? Nope, no visits to Leptis Magna for us any time soon. Tunisia? Er… Malta, phew, yes! Let’s go to Malta!

So the only cruises available in any number at the moment are to the Western Med. Precious little, if anything at all for the Eastern Med.

Okay, so that’s the Med. What about the Caribbean? After all, US ships go virtually nowhere else? Well, it’s okay, but it’s not 100% cheery there either:

Robbed in St Lucia

Shot in Barbados

The cruise companies may well soon start avoiding certain islands altogether.

Of course, this isn’t every island and these incidents make the news because they are so unusual, but the overcautious nature of cruise companies, particularly those owned by Carnival, an American firm, who start with the assumption you are going to sue them and work backwards from there, means that avoidance may become the name of the game in very short order.

And then there is South America. Let’s go the Falkland Islands and see the penguins. Well, we were going to go to Argentina. And, of course,we’re not allowed to do both…

What about the Indian Ocean and the Pacific? In the past, we have been turned away from the Seychelles (pirates), Bangkok (bombs), Tokyo (too crowded!)… the list goes on.

So, the world is literally getting smaller, both for the populace as a whole, but particularly for cruise ship passengers, and I have a feeling it is only going to get smaller, as cruise companies avoid more and more places for fear of what might happen.

I don’t want to make you miserable, but you may just want to bear it in mind when you’re planning your next jaunt. There may well be at least one place, possibly more, you get diverted away from, possibly with very little notice or warning.

I would be interested if any of my readers have been anywhere that might be perceived as a bit dodgy recently, and how it was for you. Please let me know, and maybe together we can persuade the cruise companies that there is more to life than fjords.